The Tint Guide

Everything worth knowing before you tint.

What the film actually does, what each shade really looks like from the driver's seat, what happens on install day — and exactly how dark you are allowed to go in your state.

Tint is not just darkness.

Sunlight reaching your car is three different things at once, and a window film deals with each one separately. That is why two films that look identical from the outside can feel completely different to sit in.

UV

Ultraviolet — the part that damages

Invisible, and the reason dashboards crack and leather fades. Every quality film blocks around 99% of it, no matter how light the shade. This one is not a trade-off — even a nearly clear film protects your interior and your skin.

IR

Infrared — the part you feel

Infrared is heat. This is where films genuinely differ: a basic film might reject about a third of it, a true multi-layer ceramic well over 90%. It is also why a light ceramic can keep a cabin cooler than a dark cheap film.

VLT

Visible light — the part you see

VLT is the percentage of visible light the glass lets through, and it is the number the law cares about. 5% is very dark, 70% is nearly clear. Lower number means darker glass. It says nothing about heat rejection.

What each shade actually looks like.

Shade is measured in VLT — the lower the number, the darker the glass. Your factory glass is usually somewhere around 70–80% already, so a 35% film on top of it lands darker than 35% suggests. Highlighted below is Florida's limit for a car's front side windows.

5%Limo. Private, and illegal on most windows.
15%Very dark. Florida's rear limit for a car.
20%Dark, still usable at night with care.
25%The popular middle for rear glass.
35%Clean factory look. Legal almost everywhere.
50%Subtle. Mostly there for the heat.
70%Nearly invisible. Full UV and heat work.

These are illustrations, not colour-accurate samples — glass, paint and light all change how a shade reads on your specific car. Come by either shop and we will hold real film samples against your own windows before anything is cut. If you are unsure, this is the single best reason to visit first.

What install day is actually like.

No surprises. Here is the whole thing, including the part most shops do not mention — the few days afterwards while the film cures.

Before you arrive

Bring it clean

Inside and out. Dust and debris are the enemy of a clean install — a clean car genuinely produces a better result, which is why we ask every customer.

At the shop

Two to four hours

A typical car is a couple of hours; a windshield or a full package takes longer. We prep and deep-clean every pane, then cut and fit the film to your exact glass.

First few days

Haze is normal

A slight cloudiness or small water pockets right after fitting are the curing moisture, not a defect. They clear on their own — usually within a few days, longer in cool or damp weather.

Aftercare

Windows stay up

Leave them up for 3–5 days so the edges set. After that, clean with a soft cloth and an ammonia-free cleaner — ammonia is what breaks film down over the years.

Warranty and Tint Care are not the same thing.

This is the question we get asked most. The short version: the warranty covers the film failing. Tint Care covers life happening to it.

Included free

Lifetime warranty

  • Covers the film failing on its own: bubbling, peeling, cracking, premature colour shift.
  • Covers film and labour, for as long as you own the vehicle.
  • Comes with every install at no cost — you do not sign up for anything.
  • Does not cover accidents, break-ins, scratches, or damage from abrasive or ammonia-based cleaners.

File a warranty claim

Optional plan

Tint Care

  • Covers the things a warranty never will: a broken window, a break-in, a scratch, an accident.
  • Unlimited replacements — you pay only a small per-visit service fee for the glass involved.
  • Billed monthly or yearly, cancel whenever you want.
  • Transfers with the vehicle's VIN if you sell within 30 days.

See Tint Care

The film we install.

We fit the XPEL Prime line. Three tiers, same lifetime warranty on all of them — the difference is how much heat each one turns away. Every tier blocks 99% of UV.

Prime HP — High Performance

A clean, darker look with everyday UV and glare control. The sensible choice when appearance matters more than cabin temperature.

32%IR rejection
60%Solar
99%UV blocked

Prime XR — Nano-Ceramic

Real ceramic heat rejection at a sensible price. The jump from HP to XR is the biggest single step in comfort you can buy.

85%IR rejection
64%Solar
99%UV blocked

Prime XR Plus — Multi-Layer Ceramic

Our best heat rejection — true multi-layered nano-ceramic. This is the film we put on every front windshield, because a windshield is where heat gets in.

96%IR rejection
66%Solar
99%UV blocked

How dark can you legally go?

Every state sets its own minimum VLT, and many allow SUVs and vans to go darker behind the driver than a car can. Pick your state and your vehicle type.

Compiled from state statutes and official DMV, DPS and highway-patrol sources, last reviewed 14 August 2026. Tint law changes — several states moved in 2025 and 2026 — and enforcement tolerances vary. This is general information to help you choose a shade, not legal advice. Verify with your own state before relying on it. Florida figures are taken directly from F.S. 316.2953 and 316.2954.

Still not sure which shade?

Come by either shop and we will hold real samples against your own glass. Or start your booking — you can leave the shade decision to us at the counter.

Start my booking